Tromsø

Goodbye to Svolvær and hello to the MS Lofoten. A kind of Agatha Christie feel in this older boat of the fleet, and a nice contrast to the floating hotel of the MS Finnmarken. 

I'm on A BOAT!

Our cabin is modest to say the least. A couple of bunks and a locked porthole are ours for the next day, and we dump our baggage in the gloom. Life onboard is sedate, with everyone playing cards or reading. A few folks are keen to chat, and discuss the darkness that is in every direction. Actually, after a while, the darkness gives in to a ghostly silhouette of the fiords around us. Pretty amazing, and Toby is excited by the whole thing.  In the morning, we awake to the sight of snow on the surrounding hills. Lou is now satisfied by the snowflake quotient of the holiday, and things are all good. Spotted some whales off the side of the boat, a first for us both!

Nice morning visions.

We disembark at Tromsø after a beautiful entrance to the port and things are slippy underfoot on our way to the Clarion Hotel Bryggen which is nice enough. Room nice, and they kindly offered us both free dinner for NYE at their restaurant in return for our lengthy check in. Not saying no...

Many places closed, so dinner at the local dive after a quick pint a the local (playing lo-fi vinyl from the bar - nice). Time to hit the hay in readiness for an early start for sightseeing in the morning.

Last Tango in Svolvær: Off on the Hurtigruten

We've enjoyed our last day in Svolvær doing very, very little. The weather hasn't helped today. A continuous grey sky constantly pouring with rain made us stay in our PJs as long as possible and loaf about our cabin for the last time, as tonight we begin the next leg of our journey - to Tromsø!

Toby has played on the computer between cooking interesting lunches and trying on various new trousers (the wintry kind!) and Lou has been involved in many murderous and mysterious cases with Sherlock Holmes and Dr Watson (on her Kindle!). A perfectly lazy Sunday.

Our ship, the MS Lofoten, arrives at Svolvær at 9pm and departs at 10pm, sharp. We shall be on the ship, in an Unspecified Outside Cabin (I don't think they mean outside, outside?!) enroute to Tromsø, where it is currently dumping lots of fresh snow for Lou to stomp about in tomorrow afternoon when we arrive.

It's snowing in Tromso!
Two Hurtigruten ships in the background.

The wi-fi on the Hurtigruten ships is a bit dodgy, so we're signing out until tomorrow evening when we arrive in Tromsø with hopefully some photos of outstanding scenery to share.

PS. Haven't seen any bears, wolves or reindeer yet but we have seen at least 5 sea eagles! :-)

Lofoten: In search of snowy mountains...

It's very difficult to wake up early here without an alarm clock. It doesn't start to show any signs of light until around 9.30/10am. But we're on holiday, so a bit of sleeping in is fine. 

Anyway, Saturday we got up as early as we could and Toby made us a hearty breakfast of scrambled eggs and salmon on warmed bread (we don't have a toaster!), made a packed lunch and set off on a drive into the mountains - trying to make the most of the few daylight hours!

This time, we were going to head north on the E10 (the big road) and have a look at some snowy mountains and dramatic coastlines.

Toby was getting much more used to driving The Yeti now and only needed the occasional reminder of which side to drive on. The icy roads, dim light and lack of middle white lines, tested his driving skills to the max!

We turned off the E10 at Fiskebøl and nearly ended up on a ferry to Melbu! Cue many jokes about Malibu beach, Melba Peach etc etc. Oh how we laughed.

Wiggling through the mountainous roads, we were delighted to see many inland fjords or lochs (I'd call 'em), which were mirror-still. They were amazing but sadly there was nowhere to stop and we just had to enjoy them for ourselves. We continued winding through the mountain roads and ended up on the north coast of the island, which looked out into the Norwegian Sea and if you had really, really good eyesight, you would see Greenland!

Toby climbed up some rocks to take pictures of the mountains falling straight into the sea, whilst Lou picked at the rocks and shells - our usual arrangement! 

Having wound our way in the dusk back to the rorbuer, there was time to relax before heading out to dinner at the Börsen Spiseri restaurant in Svolvær. A lovely old wood beamed place and a nice selection of local Norwegian dishes. Good service and a friendly atmosphere. 

Our final adventure of the day was to continue along to the end of the harbour wall (via the fish yard...) and along to the illuminated fish drying racks at the end that we had spied from across the water. Impressive structures. 

A quick trudge back in the rain and bed at midnight. Zzzz......

Loafin' in Lofoten

After our exciting yet long journey north, we took today relatively easy by comparison. We awoke late (9am) to find that it was still pitch black outside, pouring with rain and blowing a hoolie. Whilst Lou worked out the coffee-making (a hugely important task), Toby ventured out into the storm to secure breakfast. 

Toby came back soaked but bearing great baked prizes - enormous ham and cheese poppy-seeded bagel-esque things and a cinnamon/custard swirl thing. Both were huge. Toby polished both of his off and Lou saved her roll for later.

Energy levels were up and spirits were high as the rain eventually cleared and we headed out in search of our car hire place. On our quest, we bumped into an Italian couple who had been on the Hurtigruten with us the night before. They were also hiring a car to get about, but their hire place was shut and no-one was answering. We wished them luck and Toby's map reading skills were put to the test in a particularly non-descript part of town. After a quick march through the centre of Svolvær, we found our hire place and, like the Italians, were on our own there. We waited a bit, had a shout around, even phoned the UK hotline (my poor phone bill!) and just as we were describing where Svolvær was to the call centre person, our rep turned up.

We were handed a diesel Astra estate and promptly named it "The Yeti". Toby was the driver and we headed back to change shoes - walking boots aren't the best! After a quick change, we were off down the coast to make the most out of the very few daylight hours we had left. We decided to head south along the islands and see where the road took us. 

We were surrounded by beautiful scenery and stopped a few times to take some snaps. Dashing off the main road, we first went down to a place called Kalle and to a beach. Lou was happy digging through the flotsam and jetsam for 'treasure', whilst Toby played with his camera ending up with some excellent pictures.

Hopping back into the Yeti and fighting Toby's ideas of hiking up Glomtinden, we zoomed towards Henningsvær. The scenery was even more dramatic as it faced out onto the ocean and the wind whipped the waves into a frothy frenzy! (nice alliteration - ed.)

The daylight was starting to fade quickly by now and we whisked ourselves back to Svolvær to go to the supermarket and get in supplies.

After a lovely dinner of Lofoten fish and a bit of a sleep, we went down to see the Magic Ice exhibition. On the way, the clouds cleared and we were able to see a wonderfully clear night and a starry sky - one of the main things we came up here for!

Magic Ice was dead and we were the only ones in there, which meant we were able to enjoy the sculptures and our Arctic Fire drinks in solitude. It was minus 6 inside - positively tropical! The lights, sculptures and music made for quite an eerie atmosphere, but we had fun!

As we left, another Hurtigruten ship arrived; it spoilt one of Toby's pictures of some herring drying racks. We had timed our visit to the Magic Ice perfectly as hoards of ferry passengers clamoured to get in!

The temperature is dropping and there might be snow on the way! We'll see...

Bodø to Svolvær: Round the houses

Our ship, The Finnmarken set sail as planned at  3pm. Sadly, by this time the sun had completely set and we could only see lights and the faint outline of the snow-dusted mountains that surrounded the harbour. Toby managed to take some photos in the dusk. The light is very blue up here; it's wonderful.

Smoothly, we chugged through the harbour and along the rugged coastline, but once we got out into the open sea, the wind picked up and the swell of the waves rocked our boat to and fro and to and fro and to and fro. Not being the most seaworthy sailor, Lou had to concentrate quite a lot on not being queasy. Toby on the other hand, was out on deck loving the waves! 

At about 7pm, we docked at Stamsund and over the tannoy, disembarking passengers for Svolvær also needed to disembark at Stamsund as the wind was too high for the ship to dock at Svolvær. We would have to continue our journey by coach! 10 of us packed ourselves onto a coach bound for Svolvær, which took us on a wiggly route round the coast of the Lofoten islands. The wind and rain battered the coach and it was Toby's turn to feel queasy as we wound our way through the dark. The coach driver kindly dropped us off right at Anker Brygge instead of making us walk in the driving rain to our little cabin. Despite the whole complex being closed, we were met by a really friendly guy, who didn't actually work there anymore (he used to, but was just home for Christmas). We picked our cabin and walked into the most awesome little house right by the water's edge with a view to die for overlooking the mountains.

We quickly ventured out into the rain and found a 7/11 which sold sweets and not much else. Luckily we found a small, but very expensive, tin of spaghetti and sausages and took that back for some sustenance. The cabin was already stocked with (proper) coffee so Lou was happy. 
Whilst we were out, we heard the boom of a ship's horn and after turning the corner, what did we see?
Yes, that's right, THE HURTIGRUTEN MS FINNMARKEN - our ship!

Obviously, they'd decided to chance it after all and had turned up half an hour after we had. Toby was furious! 

We took our (very expensive) tin of spaghetti back to the cabin and cooked up the traditional delicacy on our little hob and then tucked ourselves in for the night. Yet although we thought we were alone on our little harbour, we were wrong and a loud group of 'yoofs' had a bangin' party right next to our heads. Toby was out for the count and snored along to the chants of "We love you Liverpool"... 

Oslo to Bodø

Very early start for the tromping four-some (Toby, Lou, Maude and Floyd). We arrived at Oslo train station to get the FlytoGet train for the airport at 7am - eugh, too early! Our taxi ride was 10 minutes, but cost about £35. Ouch.

Anyway, we made it to the airport with plenty of time to spare and Toby managed to drop his driving license, which was quickly found by a security guard. Phew! Lou, despite her best efforts, managed to have her bag searched AGAIN. This time, leaving her Kindle still in the bag. Not sure how dangerous a Kindle might be, but by now, Lou is getting quite used to be searched - obviously looks dodgy, especially at 7.45am.

Had a great flight from Oslo to Bodø but sadly had a bit of an obscured view (wing seats - boo). Fantastic views of the sky and clouds with crazy colours and we're not quite sure why, but it sure felt like we were nearing the arctic circle and the impending darkness. As we taxied into the airport, we were surrounded by snow-capped mountains that jutted out the surrounding flats like jagged teeth. Toby was very excited, although we're NOT going mountaineering on this holiday.

Good bye sunshine!

Arriving in Bodø was an interesting one. We made it out the airport in double quick time, and decided against getting a coffee and something to eat at the OPEN 7/11 there. Instead, we waited outside in the cold and gloom for the airport bus to take us into central Bodø. After waiting about 40 minutes, no bus came. The increasing group of travellers waiting with us at the bus stop, discovered that there wasn't going to be a bus for over an hour. Toby by this point said that we should have walked...

We decided to all club in for some taxis and just as the couple with the small baby were packing themselves into a taxi, the bloody bus turned up!

We ran with all our luggage to the bus stop where the bus driver told us that he'd finished for the day and wasn't driving into the centre. This is all after the family with the small child quickly dragged their belongings out of the taxi and ran towards the bus. The bus driver then pulled away and we furiously tried to re-hail the cab for the family. No luck.

After not too long, two more cabs turned up and we jumped in with a couple from Kyrgyzstan who live in Moscow and are just visiting Bodø for a few days. Eventually, we ended up in the centre of Bodø, where nothing was open. 

NOTHING.

Except the shopping centre. None of the shops, just the arcade; a very strange deal. Toby went on a scout whilst Lou looked after the bags. Toby came back bearing bad news. 

Bodø had been part of a major zombie apocalypse and everyone and everything had disappeared.

It started to rain and we absentmindedly began to walk in a direction we hadn't totally explored, feeling hungry, grumpy and a bit dejected. After not too long, we saw a light and people flocking to it, like moths round a flame. What was this we thought? A cafe? A toilet? A museum? We ventured in, unsure of what fresh hell we were about to bring upon ourselves... surprisingly it was the train station!

It was warm, it had seats and we settled into waiting there for a few hours, when we found out that it was closing in 20 minutes. Were we ever going to catch a break?

Loaded with chocolate brownies, Toby went on another scout about and found the Hurtigruten port just as our ship - the MS Finnmarken - was coming into port. 

We clambered aboard and checked in and loaded ourselves up on coffee and food before our 6 hour sail across to Svolvær, relieved to find somewhere warm, inviting and with free wi-fi.

We set sail at 3pm and the impending storm with gale-force winds is our Christmas present from the UK - thanks folks! Toby is happy with his camera to be taking photos of everything, even though it is nigh on pitch-black outside. (It has been twilight since we arrived at 10.30am!)

Off to Svolvær now on the Lofoten islands where we'll arrive at 9pm and stay at another Anker Brygge. Wish us calm seas and clear skies!

Oslo - Bodø - Svolvær: The long trek

Might not be able to post for a while...

We're about to fly from Oslo to Bodø and then catch the Hurtigruten (a ship) over to Svolvær.

The weather isn't looking too good:

Wish us luck. 

We get to Svolvaer about 9pm tonight after getting up at 6.15am! Bleurgh!

Enjoy boxing day - lots of bubble and squeak and homemade chips. Yum!

T&L xx

Awesome Oslo: 23rd - 26th December

Christmas Eve (or Julaften) in Oslo was a bit of a soggy affair. Not much of Oslo was open and there was only so far we could go without being blown to pieces or drowned! So we ended up taking full advantage of our amazing hotel room, huge TV and free movies - we watched 4 in one day!

We did venture out sporadically when the showers allowed us and we found a supermarket to buy in supplies. Snuggling down with the spoils of our shopping trip, we watched Rise of the Guardians, Despicable Me 2, Kung Fu Panda 2 and Elf. 

Christmas Day (God Jul!)

Well quite a different Christmas for us this year. No pressies, no christmas tree, no christmas pudding! We were hoping for a white christmas but sadly, not this year.

We began the morning by Skyping, texting and calling our folks back home to wish them a Merry Chrimbo. 

Donning our hats, scarves and gloves, we set out in search of anything that was open! We walked along the harbour front all the way to Akerhus and then turned off into what seemed to be a building site - Toby takes Lou to all the best places! We were heading for Engekeberger (sp) park where Lou had envisaged a romantic horse and carriage ride through the park.

In truth, it was bloody miles away from Oslo and the park was off the map. We ended up scrapping that notion of a romantic Christmas and went for a wander towards Uranienberg (I kid you not!). We found the ruins of a 12th Century Cathedral and a pigeon lady who kept following us. We think we wandered through the 'less salubrious' part of Oslo and eventually found a 7Eleven to buy 2 hot dogs (pølse). An interesting Christmas dinner!

We did however, find the Oslo Opera house, which is meant to look like an iceberg. We walked all the way to the top and had fantastic views of seagulls and the city. We meandered through the town up to what we think is a palace or the parliament. Judging by the armed guards, it was an important place. We mucked about taking silly photos with Maude and Floyd - luckily we didn't get shot.

Eventually after about 5 hours, we returned back to The Thief and rested by watched The King's Speech before we went to the restaurant Fru-K for dinner. We had quite rare, but very nice burgers and some delicious wine and after packing our belongings for the following day's early start, we settled into to watching the last half of Forrest Gump.

Thanks Oslo - we'll come back again when you're open!

Merry Christmas from Oslo

Bergen to Oslo - Through the Mountains: Monday 23rd December

We got up early on Monday morning so that we could catch our epic train to Oslo at 8am. We had packed the night before and after a swift breakfast and a sneaky sandwich making, we trundled through the streets of Bergen to the station. We managed to walk down the only part of Bergen with cobbles (something we always tend to find when travelling with suitcases!).

Our seats were pretty comfy with free tea, coffee and hot chocolate and even free wifi! It was still dark as we passed through the Norwegian countryside, but as we climbed higher and higher, the sun came up and we were able to begin to catch glimpses of what lay outside.

SNOW!

The sun was at its peak as we travelled past Finse (the highest point on the train ride). We saw the most pristine, snowy covered landscapes. Snow so deep you just want to jump into it! We also saw: flowing rivers with slushy ice and mini icebergs; icicles about 5ft long; bridges full of snow and trees almost bent double with the weight of the snow. Lou was in her element!

After reaching Finse, it was all downhill into Oslo from there and slowly the snow disappeared and we arrived in the capital city just as it was getting dark. We wheeled our suitcases down to the sea front and found our epic hotel: The Thief!

Upgraded again to a Deluxe room - bingo! Lovely views from our balcony out onto the water and over to Akerhus fortress. We were also treated to a fantastic surprise from Deano and Nic (our wedding present from them) and enjoyed some lovely bubbly as we settled into our room - thanks so much guys.

Bergen Baby

Bergen Baby! 21st-23rd December 2013

Early start with chauffeur service to the airport (thanks Hannah!). Lucky to make it to the plane on time as Lou was frisked, having set the beepy machine off, and had to have her bag searched after leaving some perfume somewhere in its depths - whoops!

So we arrived in Bergen on Saturday lunchtime. The weather was much the same in Bergen as it had been at home - wet and grey - but the excitement of our impending adventure kept us cheery!

Arriving at our hotel (Clarion Collection Bergen), we were met with a warm welcome, and kindly set up with a room overlooking the water - the Veidung Suite. A suite! Not only was it a suite, the staff had put out a fruit platter, bottle of wine and a lovely handwritten note welcoming us to Bergen. 5* already! Great staff and great place.

Headed out into Bergen to scout the place, and take pictures of the surroundings. The Bryggen (a Unesco heritage site) was very picturesque! 

Our hotel offered free make-your-own pancakes and so we took full advantage! Dinner was also complimentary - quids in! Lou out for the count at 8pm, and slept soundly for 12 hours. Toby went insomnia-adventuring on the streets of Bergen until around midnight, taking night time pictures of Bryggen.

After a glorious sleep, we woke to a dark and rainy Bergen, which according to the travel guide, happens more often than not (rain four in five days). We waited for a break in the weather and chanced a journey up on the Fløibanen (sp?) funicular railway up to the top of one of the surrounding hills. First proper bit of snow up there and Lou was happy to splish about in the slush. Got some nice views out over Bergen. Floyd and Maude (see pic) had their photo taken in the snow. We all stomped back down through a mossy and mystical forest into the city centre, where we had delicious cinnamon buns and warmed our toes.

Later on in the evening, we ventured out into the storm (with thunder, lightning and hailstones) to Pingvinen (Penguin) bar. The Norwegians seem to like their low lighting - a crepuscular folk, says Toby. We have a few beers and then Toby decides to buy TWO shots of Aquavit. Aquavit is potato vodka stuff and is pretty vile. It burns on the way down and makes your tongue and mouth fizz, but at least we've tried it!

Off to sleep as Oslo awaits us in the morning, plus a 7 hour train journey through the mountains. Will be sad to leave this place. A nice start to ease us into Norway.

View of Bergen from the top!

Floyd has a swift pint.

Sweet suite!